作者：罗群;

机构：中国丝绸博物馆;

中文关键词：四经绞罗;;穿综方法;;开口;;绞综;;弯曲

英文关键词：Complex gauze;Setup;Shed;Doup;Bend

中文摘要：中国古代提花四经绞罗工艺技术已失传,但其生产工艺神奇独特。为了复原其工艺,以长沙马王堆出土的杯型菱纹罗为复制对象,在四经绞罗地组织的穿综方法、提花四经绞罗纹部组织的穿综方法、提花方式的选择方面,改进了夏鼐和约翰贝克的方法,用两步开口方法成功地复制了织物。其参数为:总经4440根,幅宽:50cm,经密88.8根/cm,纬密18根/cm,经线纤度56D。此方法可供进一步探索四经绞罗的织造技术参考。

英文摘要：There were many structures had been used to woven silk in ancient China.The complex gauze is one of them.It is complete different from common gauze which can be woven by automatic machine,not only it's setup on loom is more complex and dramatic,but also the weaving process is unique.It has to be woven by sword beater instead of reed because each warp end linked next one in structure.The weaving technology was invented as early as Sang Dynasty(13th century BC),many complex gauzes woven in ancient time have been discovered until Ming Dynasty.The technology has disappeared in history.The secret attracted archeologists and professionist to discover it.Hsia Nai,a director in the Institute of Archaeology,Chinese Academy of Social Sciences had suggested weaving process in the book named "Archaeology and the History of Science and Technology".According to his method,doup heddle will be bend by warp by three times when crossed shed is opened.The bend heddle look like "W" form.The weaving operation is too difficult to work.Dane John Becker had introduced another weaving process.Heddle is bend by one time when complex gauze is woven.Compare with Hsia Nai'way,the weaving condition is improved,but heddle will be bend by three times when patterned complex gauze is woven,such operation as difficult as Hsia Nai'method.In other hand three of fourth warp have to been lifted when crossed shed is opened,it will cause there are more disorder warp in the shed but also more labor will be paid.According to above experiments,weaving operation will be troubled by two problems.1.The number of wefts in the one unit of ground structure is four ends;they are woven in crossed shed and tabby shed one by one.Doup heddle have to be bend when crossed shed is opened,if heddle is bend by three times,the shed will be blocked by bending heddle,the weaving operation will too difficult to work.2.The each crossing warp end will cross two ground warp ends near itself when tabby shed is opened;it will cause heavy rubbing between both kinds of warp at front and back of doup,the number of broken warp is increased,the weaver will be trapped by knotting thread.By further study,a reasonable setup can solve two problems;therefore setup was developed from methods suggested by Hsia Nai and John Backer for weaving complex gauze.Double doups are designed out,which linked each other for weaving complex gauze.Both doups will countermarch move,by this way,just one of fourth warp will be lifted and heddle will be bend by one time when crossed shed is opened.In addition one sheet consist of both ground warp and crossing warp is divided into two sheets by stick,one sheet consist of crossing warp is placed upside,another sheet consist of ground warp is placed downside;the goal is reduced rubbing between both kinds of warps.Besides setup changed,the operating process is changed when patterned complex gauze is woven.The crossed shed is opened by two steps;doup heddle will be bend by one time in each step.The weaving work is become easy after setup and operation changed.The patterned complex gauze,which excavated from Ma-wang Dui tomb dating to Han Dynasty,was successful reproduced.Several figures of replica are as follows: width is 50 cm,warp: organzine 62.2dex(1 dex means 1 gram per 10000 meters),counterthread: 88 end per cm,weft: organzine 62.2dex,counterthread: 18 end per cm.

[中文刊名]：文物保护与考古科学 [出版日期]：2008-05-15 [CN]：31-1652/K [ISSN]：1005-1538

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