作者：曹喆;

机构：东华大学服装学院 上海200051

中文关键词：唐代服饰;;平巾帻;;裲裆;;袴褶

英文关键词：costume of Tang Dynasty;Pingjin-Ze;Liang-Dang;Ku-Xi

中文摘要：考证平巾帻的组成、穿法及使用对象。通过搜集古代文献,特别是唐、宋时期关于平巾帻的记载以及史料中的图像,用相互印证的方式考证了该服饰。考证发现:平巾帻之服是唐代使用最为普遍的官服之一,上至皇帝和文武官员,下至没有品级的普通官员都可以使用;不同级别官员的服饰色彩和配饰的材料不同;平巾帻之服主要由平巾帻、袴褶、起梁带、靴等搭配而成;作军服使用,若武官陪位大仗,需要加裲裆和螣蛇,也是一种常服,唐代将之作为骑马服使用。

英文摘要：The costume of Pingjin-Ze was one kind of most popular official uniforms in Tang Dynasty.Most people,including the emperor,and government officials with or without rank,would wear the costume,and different colors and materials of ornaments for different ranks.The costume of Pingjin-Ze was made up of Pingjin-Ze,Ku-Xi,Qi-liang belt,boot and so on.In addition,officers must wear Liang-Dang and Teng-She when they took part in guard of honor.The costume of Pingjin-Ze was used as uniform in army,also used as sportswear for riding horse in Tang dynasty.

[中文刊名]：纺织学报 [出版日期]：2008-01-15 [CN]：11-5167/TS [ISSN]：0253-9721

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